Unsuspecting as it may seem at first glance, the funky container-eatery set upon large wooden decks and surrounded by dozens of traditional ‘Strandkoerben’ (beach baskets) and even beach sand, is quite the spot here on Kiel Bay.
I had heard about this little gem a few times from fellow lifestylers, but stumbled upon it more by accident, although those are not supposed to happen as EVERYTHING happens for a reason, right? So, there I was following a successful endeavour at the Holstein Kiel stadium where the local team, literally now at the whim to climb into the top German Bundesliga, sealed another win, and thought that a little bite to eat wouldn’t go astray.
I drove along the road right behind the famous Kiel-Linie where I used to hang out during Kiel Week, the annual sailing and cultural festival held every June since 1882, the largest of its kind in the world, and spotted the little shack-looking Moby below. And, since a parking spot opened up right before me, it must have been meant to be!
I meandered down the long stairs from the road and was pleasantly surprised by the funky set-up bustling with locals and tourists alike. Judging by the long line pinning for the open window where you order, the food must be worth it, so I lined up too.
Quickly, the relaxing vibe, the atmosphere overlooking the Kiel Foerde (bay), and the mixed crowd made me feel chilled out. Next, it was my turn to choose from the simple but hard-to-pick-from menu. I went for the Shark Bites with chips (a must-try classic) with rich homemade Remoulade and to accompany, plus a small bottle of the local Fritz Cola range, I went for the berry flavour.
The little ordering slip did not have a number or such, instead, mine read ‘Matjes’, German seaman’s slang for souced Herring. I went and found a spot on one of the stools parked by the long bench next to a lovely elderly couple, which afforded me a nice outlook over the wide pathway by the water’s edge and the chairs and many Strandkoerbe strewn out below.
Soon enough my name, well “Matjes”, was called from the far window of the container kitchen and my cardboard boat filled to the brim with steaming Shark Bites and crunchy chips was handed to me. Naturally, I could not wait to pick a few chips out, even before I sat down.
Then it was time to dig in properly. Tender, juicy fish, crunchy on the outside – dipped in some of the best homemade Remoulade I have tasted, melted on my tongue. Then a few perfectly cooked crunchy chips… Yum! The sea air drifting across from the water’s edge and seagulls the size of eagles soaring and singing above – the combination was simply transporting.
There was a neverending shuffle of people from all walks of life tackling the Kiel Linie path by the water that runs from near the city centre right out past the old Government building (still used today) and past the Kieler Yacht Club (famous eatery, saved for another day) and the Maritim Hotel (a landmark place to stay), all the way to where the historic Tallship Gorch Fock lies moured when she is not on high seas somewhere around the world.
Couples meandering in a cloud of affection holding hands; young families with little ones on small bikes, in stallers and cute straggling ones behind; loads of people on bikes; groups of fit elderly in a keen stride; bunches of youngsters chasing each other; teens wearing clothes too cool for school and too skimpy for the still fresh Kiel weather, and just about everything in between.
People-watching being one of my relaxing and meditative pastimes, I nibbled away at my classic dish, forgot the time, sipped my Fritz drink, and soaked up the ambience. Further down there was a group dancing Salsa and anyone walking past could join in. On the other side up a little was a group with banners and a small mic sharing stories of hope. All around were kids laughing, and people chatting, pierced only by the loud calls from the seagulls – it made for the perfect reprieve from the extra-loud soundscape of victory screams of the sold-out stadium before and took me back to my sailing days growing up when this bay was my home – every weekend and school holiday aboard our family yacht ‘Andros’.
Yes, time stood still.
Only a few last chips remained, the Remoulade wiped up with food to its very last, the fishy delights long gone, the drink emptied. I was feeling relaxed and nurtured. I had to literally pry myself away. Not only did I have places to be, but also the long line of punters vying for their share of the culinary offerings and wide selection of bevies seemed to never end – well, and I was happy to give my perfect spot on the deck up for the next.
While Moby is not a 5-star eatery or claims to be the best seafood restaurant in Kiel, it has earned (yes, earned) itself its spot as one of the places to be when the North German weather is sunny and mild. Another classic not to overlook is the ‘Fischbroetchen’, you’ll know what the fuss is about once you had one.
Truth be told, I have been back twice since, once scoring one of the Strandkoerbe (an experience in itself) trying out one of the local brews; and another time when all I was doing was wishing my closest friends to be here to share the experience with me.
Check ‘em out online, and make the effort to grab a bite and drink at this funky setup when you are next in Kiel (or if you live here and you have actually NOT been here yet! Really??) Go!
My Vote:
5 out of 5 Fishheads for tasty seafood, the best Remoulade, friendly service, and of course the perfect seaside ambiance and location! Ahoi Moby!
